Coffee is a subject close to my heart. My appreciation for it coincided with beginning my chef's training. When every aspect of the dining experience is taken seriously, a high standard for coffee is of great importance.

With the long hours everyone works, it is craved and revered. I was fortunate to receive guidance in the art of making a good coffee by several obsessive waiters.

My favourite way to start a late shift at Rockpool was with a short black and a fresh date. During my time at Langton's restaurant in Melbourne it was hard to resist the offer of a fifth or sixth flat white when staring down the barrel of an 80-hour week but I don't recommend this habit.

There's a theory that if coffee was discovered today it would be deemed an illegal substance due to its stimulating properties. True or not, I am thankful coffee has been consumed since about the 10th century and there seems little threat of it being outlawed.

Jane Strode